Yamaha – R6 Oil Change

You will NEED.

1. 17mm wrench for oil pan bolt.

2. Oil catch pan. Enough for 4 quarts.

3. Preferably a race stand but not imperative.

4. 4 Quarts of Yamalube or a qualified replacement.

5. Oil Filter. I use the Mobil1 M1-110.

6. It’s always a good idea to have a service manual handy to cross reference.

Process

1. Remove your front left lower fairings so you can access the front and bottom of your engine.

Have a little pan to put loose bolts in so you don’t lose them.

2. It’s preferable to have at least a rear stand to get the bike higher but just placing it on some study bricks will work. Just make sure you don’t tip the bike over. That sucks.

3. I recommend wrapping the headers around the oil plug in tin foil so oil doens’t leak all over them. Nothing sucks more (not really) than smelling burning oil for the next 20,000 miles.

4. Place the container that can receive the 4(ish) quarts of oil under the bike. There should be a bolt that screws into the engine at the bottom. Put it right under that bolt.

5. Remove the bolt. If there is a washer on the bolt don’t lose it. If you don’t have one you may want to consult your manual to see if you are supposed to.

6. Oil should be flowing into your container.

7. Once the oil has been completely drained remove the oil filter located on the left side of the engine. It sh0uld look just like a car oil filter and probably black in color. I use the Mobil1 M1-110 and I get them from my local Autozone. You will need to remove the gear selector rod by loosening the top crimper, it will slide right off after that.

8. Put a new coat of oil on the seal on the new filter.

8. While the oil is draining from the sump, you can remove the oil filter. If you have the Filter wrench, this is a little easier, however, there is a simple alternative. Using a screwdriver and hammer, carefully pierce the Oil filter in the end, and then angle it through and pierce it out the side of the filter. This will give you enough leverage to be able to unscrew the old Oil Filter. Once it is off, ensure that the filter mating surface on the engine has no muck on it. Install the new filter. Don’t leak oil all over your pipes to avoid the possiblity of fire and the certainty of annoying smoke.

9. Replace the bolt in the bottom of the engine. This is VERY TRICKY. Many people have stripped out their oil pan plug by over tightening it. DON’T DO THIS. Use a torque wrench (31 lbs. for 2006-2007 R6). If you don’t have a torque wrench only tighten the plug 1/2 a turn past “snug”.

10. Pour your new oil into the bike. After two quarts I check the dipstick every 1/4 of a quart. Be very careful not to overfill on oil. The bike should receive around 2.75 US quarts of oil. However, don’t be surprised if the bike takes a little more than 3 quarts.

Credit: R6blog.com & Z07freak-Youtube.com

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Rear Wheel Removal : Honda Chain Drive Motorcycles

Replacing the rear wheel on a motorcycle is not difficult. Follow these few steps and you will have no problems. What is show in this video can be applied to most motorcycles with a chain or belt drive.

To get started, get your rear wheel off the ground with either the centre stand or a jack. Loosen the chain tension guided on each side of the motorcycle. Take out the cotter pin on the axle retaining bolt. Loosen the axle retaining bolt. Put something under the rear tire to keep the wheel from falling to the floor once the axle is removed. Using a screwdriver pull the axle through. Now your wheel should be ready to pull out.

BRAKES!!!! DO NOT press the rear brake level when the wheel is out. With no brake disk in the brake caliper by pressing the level you will make the brake pistons over extend, then you have a BIG problem to deal with :( Tie the brake caliper up so it does not dangle on the hoses. Use a tie-wrap or a bungie for this.

SPACERS!! Your wheel will have spacers in the hub which are loose and easily lost. Mark which side each spacer came out of and keep them. The shop will lose them for you if you leave them in the wheel :(

Pull your wheel out and bring it to the shop.

When you are ready to reinstall the wheel reverse the procedure.

Credit: Andrew Mercer

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Don’t Slip Up: How to Fix Dirt Bike and ATV Clutch Problems

Slipping much?

Veteran dirt bike and ATV riders can identify a clutch gone bad quite easily but new riders may not know what’s happening. If you ride a car with a manual clutch, the signs you need to get it checked on your dirt bike or ATV are quite similar.

The big one is gear slippage. Before you panic about a bad clutch first check the chain and sprockets. Replace everything even if one tooth is missing or the chain looks weathered and worn. If all looks good and you still slip when there’s appropriate slack on the chain then chances are the clutch is burned out. But before you start taking things apart…

Next, check the clutch cable. If it’s not adjusted properly or the cable is frayed or binding it can mimic the symptoms of a bad clutch. Clutch control should be smooth and allow full engagement. Tighten and lubricate if necessary. Last on your check list is taking a test ride…

When riding, if the gears refuse to shift or refuse to disengage then the clutch either needs adjustment or replaced. The other tell-tale sign is the clutch smells. The clutch on a dirt bike or ATV is bathed in oil so as it wears down it not only slips but stinks like burning oil. If you ride a 4-stroke you’re less likely to encounter clutch problems. You have to fan the clutch a lot on a 2-stroke so you’ll be well acquainted with clutch adjustments and replacements if you ride a 2-stroke.

Understand that the clutch is more than just fibers, steels and springs. The pressure plate and hub wears out along with the clutch pack. When replacing your clutch do it the right way and replace everything. Yes, it’s expensive, but you’ll just wear out the new clutch kit faster than if you replace everything at once.

Replacing a dirt bike clutch is easier than it sounds. The video at the bottom also gives a detailed account of inspecting and changing the clutch.

How to Change a Dirt Bike Clutch

Hi. My name’s Jason Thomas. We’re here at the Rockstar Energy Racing Shop in Corona, California. Today, we’re going to talk about how to check your clutch, inspect, and change if needed.

Tools and supplies to change your clutch:

  • T-handle on most bikes
  • Inch pounds torque wrench to properly torque your bolts to spec
  • Socket to torque the pressure plate bolts and the inner clutch cover – this size can vary from bike to bike
  • Outer clutch cover gasket to replace
  • 14mm or 12mm wrench for the oil drain plug if you need to replace your clutch

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The first step if you know you’re going to change your clutch, you want to drain your oil. Here in the Rockstar Shop, whenever we change a clutch, we always put in fresh oil.

If you’re just going to inspect your clutch, you’re just going to lay the bike on its side, and I’ll show you how:

  • Take the bike off the stand
  • Lean the bike over
  • Lean the bike on the bike stand by the lower triple clamp
  • Before going any further, make sure the bike’s stable

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Next, we want to pull our outer clutch cover off and inspect our clutch.

How to Remove a Dirt Bike Clutch:

  • Compress the rear brake by pushing it in
  • Push the brake pedal down
  • Stick a screwdriver in to hold the brake pedal down out of the way of your clutch cover
  • Use 8mm T-handle and remove the outer clutch cover bolts
  • Remove the cover and gasket
  • Remove pressure plate bolts and pressure plate springs

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  • Keep bolts and springs in order, organized, and clean
  • Remove clutch plates and pressure plate at all the same time – pull it all out as one unit

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Pulling your clutch pack out all at once makes it simple and it’s efficient. Next we’ll inspect our clutch.

How to inspect a Dirt Bike Clutch:

  • Look at the steel plates which are in between the fibers
  • If you see any discoloration, especially if purple or black, replace
  • For the fibers, service manual has a minimum specification that they can measure. If they fall under that specification, replace
  • Hold clutch pack to the light to see if fiber or steel plates are warped or bent. If they are, the clutch can drag and the bike will always want to pull for forward on you.

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  • If clutch passes inspection, put it back on the bike
  • If not, you need to get a new clutch and soak it in oil for at least 10 minutes
  • Use a petroleum-based oil, not a synthetic

How to Install Dirt Bike Clutch:

  • Always put the clutch back in the same way it came out, with the plates facing the same direction and the same order
  • The first plate is a fiber plate, the next plate is steel

When these steel plates are manufactured, they’re stamped out – one side has a rolled edge, the other side has a sharp edge. Here at the Rockstar Shop, we prefer to put the sharp edge up. We’ll go with the fiber and repeat until you have all your clutch plates in.

Now that your clutch plates are back in, you’re ready to put your pressure plate back on.

  • Your pressure plate should slide right on

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  • Put on the clutch springs and bolts. If you did replace your clutch, you want to replace it with new springs
  • Wind the bolts in with my 8mm T-handle; you want to wind these in by hand
  • Torque clutch plate bolts to manufacturer’s spec – most specs require 87 inch pounds
  • Reinstall outer clutch cover with a new gasket
  • Run the bolts in with T-handle and torque them to spec
  • Torque in a star pattern, go around the cover and recheck the bolts

Now that we have our clutch reinstalled, we want to get the bike back up on the stand. The last step you want to make sure to do – if you remember, we compressed our brake and we moved the brake pedal down with that screwdriver – we want to pump the brake back up.

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If you did change your clutch and you drained your oil, make sure and refill the engine back to manufacture’s spec oil level. Now that you have a fresh clutch on your bike, you’re ready to going get the holeshot. We’ll see you next time.

Credit: Motosport.com

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HONDA CB750 BY RACCIA MOTORCYCLES

Ryan Reynolds is an actor who unknowingly cost me a Scandinavian girlfriend. Back in 2005 I’d been dating a Norwegian girl and I struck upon the idea of taking her to the cinema, we bought our tickets and popcorn and settled in to watch Just Friends – a 2005 film starring Ryan and Amy Smart.

After having spent 90 minutes watching Reynolds be effortlessly charming and occasionally shirtless she turned to me and explained that it wasn’t going to work out, and that she wanted a guy more like Ryan. Now I know that none of this is Ryan’s fault per se, but I can’t help hold him vaguely responsible for stealing Synnøve away from me. So with this in mind you’ll understand my internal struggle when Mike LaFountain of Raccia Motorcycles sent me the images of the Honda CB750 you see here and told me he’d just finished building it for Ryan Reynolds. Not only had the Canadian actor stolen Synnøve, he’d also just taken delivery of one of the most beautiful and elemental Honda CB750 customs I’d ever seen. Damn him.

So far as motorcycles go, they don’t get much more iconic than the SOHC Honda CB750.

When Honda released the model in 1968 it was nicknamed the “superbike” – a moniker that stuck and led to the creation of ever more powerful motorcycles in a sort of two-wheeled arms race between motorcycle manufacturers.

The early CB750s all had 4-cylinder SOHC engines that were as reliable as taxes and capable of cheaply out-performing almost any road legal motorcycle in the world, in the eyes of collectors now it’s these early SOHC bikes that are in high demand – 10 years after releasing the original CB750 Honda released an updated DOHC version in 1979 that had some teething issues and lost some of the sentimental sheen of the earlier bikes.

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The 1976 SOHC model you see here was requested specifically by Reynolds – he’d learnt to ride on an early CB750 and as is often the case, we hold the bike we started on in high regard, even years after the fact. He contacted Mike from Raccia Motorcycles and the two men began hashing out a plan for the new bike, it was to be a ground-up rebuild and Mike would have free-reign with the sheet metal.

All-in the bike took 7 months to build and with the exception of the engine and transmission, not much of the original metal remains. A new frame was fabricated from scratch as was the elegant headlight fairing, fuel tank, seat and rear cowling. The seat was upholstered using leather from one of Ryan’s screen-worn jackets – an act that Mike struggled with as he felt it borderline sacrilegious to take scissors to such a nice bit of tailoring.

Raccia Motorcycles is known for creating pristine custom motorcycles so this bike, dubbed “Cold War”, would be a significant departure from the garage’s usual creations. Mike wanted to create a bike that could be ridden hard, raced, dropped, dusted off and look better than it did previously.

The Raccia garage is near an area that produced military aircraft during WWII so he took some of than influence and out it into the fairing and weathered, almost flak-damaged metal work.

In order to ensure the bike would handle as well as it possibly could the front suspension was rebuilt and a new pair of Works Performance shocks were added at the rear, the engine was bored out to 836cc and a performance cam was added, four Keihin CR carburettors were bolted into place and synced before the newly ported and polished head was reattached.

The completed bike has an almost steampunk elegance to it reminiscent of the post-WWII salt flat racers, Ryan is regularly seen carving through California canyons on it – when he’s not preoccupied stealing the hearts of other men’s lady-friends…

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Credit: Silodrome.com

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YAMAHA XV950 CUSTOM!

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Since the beginning of the Yamaha Yard Built program we’ve seen a surprisingly diverse array of motorcycles developed by custom bike builders from all four corners of the globe.

The number of different ways the new Yamaha XV950 platform has been interpreted by the different builders has been interesting to see and it gives me hope that more manufacturers will develop similar programs of their own to both push their own design envelopes and to encourage the growing number of talented bike builders stepping into the fray.

The bike you see here is the third built by Marcus Walz as part of the Yard Built program and it represents a look back at his very first bike – a Yamaha RD80 that he bought as a 15 year old and repainted with the Kenny Roberts speed block design that we also see here.

Interestingly, Marcus started this build from the tail, he wanted to change the stance and look of the bike significantly from how it appears as stock so he removed the original rear subframe and welded together a higher and more traditional tail end to evoke memories of Kenny Roberts’ early flat trackers.

In order to give the bike better sporting credentials Marcus fitted twin Öhlins shocks at the back and modified the front forks to use lowered Progressive springs, the tires sit on prototype hand-cast magnesium wheels by Marvic and the clip-on handlebars were provided by LSL.

In order to keep the build as tidy as possible the stock instrument cluster was removed and replaced with a Moto Gadget “Tiny” tachometer and a new headlight cowl was added inkeeping with the new cafe racer theme. Marcus then added a hand-shaped fuel tank with Monza style filler cap and a custom manifold feeding an SC-Project exhaust.

The completed bike sits somewhere halfway between a street tracker and a cafe racer, and as with all the bike in the Yard Built series, I’d love to see some enterprising bean-counter at Yamaha pick up the approval stamp for a limited edition production run. I know they won’t because practicality-blah-blah but if we forget about reality for a second, it would be a wonderful thing to be able to buy off a showroom floor.

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Credit: Silodrome.com

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A Sick Looking Yamaha XV950 Custom!

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The new Yamaha XV950 is a motorcycle designed to target the fast growing mid-size cruiser segment, Yamaha released the model in 2013 and it’s quickly found a strong foothold for itself not just in the United States by across Europe and Asia as well.

I have to admit that when I first saw the bike you see here it took me a good few seconds to realize what I was looking at, it’s a motorcycle that maintains the engine, suspension and frame of the stock Yamaha XV950 whilst somehow looking like a totally different animal. The build is the work of Germany’s Bender Brothers, a pair of Yamaha specialists with a penchant for cafe racers, scramblers and bobbers. Their work is always both elegant and daily-ridable, which is more than can be said for a lot of the current crop of custom motorcycle builders.

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The transformation of the stock Yamaha XV950 into the motorcycle you see here is an impressive piece of aesthetic engineering, it remains so close to the stock bike that (hopefully) Yamaha could be tempted to either make a limited edition production run of the model or, better yet, offer the parts required to complete the conversion as an after-market kit.

The inspiration for the build was the highly regarded Yamaha TZ750 from the mid-1970s, this influence can be seen in the paint scheme as well as the hand fabricated fuel tank, seat and rear cowl. The stock exhaust was removed and replaced with a handmade 2-into-2 tipped with twin Hattech silencers which give the bike a deeper, slightly more grumbly exhaust note.

It’s difficult to know without actually riding the bike, but it certainly looks like it’d be better suited to twisty mountain roads and local track days than the stock XV950. Although it might be a long shot I can’t help but think an affordable production version of this motorcycle would sell like doughnuts at fat camp, whilst also providing some healthy competition for the Triumph Bonneville and Kawasaki W800.

If you’d like to see more from The Bender Brothers you can click here.

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Credit: Silodrome.com

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1969 HONDA CL350 CAFE RACER

 

1969 HONDA CL350 CAFE RACER

The Honda CL350 was the marque’s best selling model for a number of years between 1968 through 1973, over 250,000 of them were produced and a significant number of them are still on the road thanks to the hard-to-kill nature of Honda’s engines.

With a dry weight of 328lbs (149kgs) and a horsepower output of 36 at the crank, the CL350 is a genuinely brilliant motorcycle to ride on tight, twisty and urban roads. The model was always destined for cafe racerization, even as the very definition of what a “cafe racer” is continues to evolve and cause countless, senseless arguments across the gasoline-scented parts of the internet.

Honda lists the CL350s top speed as 110mph but for a normal sized male adult to achieve that figure you’d need a 20mph tailwind and a slight downhill gradient, however this isn’t a drawback, bikes like this aren’t about a fabled top speed that you’ll never reach anyway, they’re about acceleration, handling and chuckability – features that the CL350 has in spades.

The bike you see here was saved from the junkyard by a friendly American chap called Shawn Smith, when he bought it is was little more than a rolling parts bike. The tank and seat were gone and the motor was shot, it was a project motorcycle that most people would never take on, and with good reason.

1969 HONDA CL350 CAFE RACER

Fortunately for this particular CL350, Shawn isn’t most people. He’s trained in automotive collision repair and has spent years customising motorcycles and snowmobiles (depending on the season), he’s worked on everything from Aprilla superbikes to little CB175s so a slightly worse for wear CL350 didn’t pose any significant challenge.

Work on the bike started with a full strip down and engine rebuild, the frame was then detabbed and painted. During the engine rebuild the engine was bored .25 over with Bore-Tech pistons, rings and gaskets, next up was a new four-cell battery, a rear frame hoop and a matching DCC Brat-style seat. The stock handlebars were replaced with a set of inverted Clubmans with all new controls, the front suspension was then rebuilt with new external springs.

The finished bike is an excellent example of a simple, no frills cafe racer and is a very close approximation of the perfect urban motorcycle. If you’d like to read more about the Honda CL350 you can click here to visit Motorcycle Classics.

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Credit: Silodrome.com

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