How to Remove the Throttle Cables on a Victory Motorcycle

Victory is one of America’s few remaining motorcycle manufacturers, standing head-to-toe with its Milwaukee-based rival, Harley-Davidson. Over the years, Victory’s machines follow the same classic lines of a cruiser-styled motorcycle, while retaining a style all of their own. The motorcycle’s fuel-injected throttle is controlled by a traditional pair of steel cables, one to pull the throttle open while the other pushes it into a closed position. Over time, these steel cables can stretch through repeated use and eventually snap. The cables can be replaced by most Victory owners armed with a standard tool set; however, the motorcycle’s fuel tank and air intake system must be removed to do so.


1) Park the motorcycle on its side stand. Cover the fuel tank with a thick cloth shop towel to prevent damaging the tank’s painted finish.

2) Pull the rubber boots protecting the throttle cable adjusters, located directly below the right handlebar switch pod. Loosen the cable adjuster lock nuts, using an open-end wrench. Turn the cable adjusters clockwise until the adjusters are seated completely against the cable housings.

3) Remove the outer clamp from the front brake master cylinder, using an Allen wrench. Pull the master cylinder away from the right handlebar, then tie it to the front fork with a bungee cord. Hold the master cylinder reservoir upright and avoid tipping it over to avoid getting air in the front brake circuit.

4) Unscrew the pair of screws joining the right handlebar switch pod, using a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the switch pod apart to reveal the throttle cables and flange attached to the end of the throttle twist grip. Roll the twist grip back and pull the rear — pull — throttle cable out of the twist grip flange catch. Roll the grip forward and pull the front — push — throttle cable out of the flange. Pull both throttle cables out of the rear portion of the switch pod.

5) Unbolt the seat from the motorcycle, using a Phillips screwdriver or an Allen wrench. Lift the rear of the seat up and pull it back until it can be removed completely. Pull both frame covers off of both sides of the motorcycle’s frame, located directly under the seat rails, by hand.

6) Unscrew the mounting bolts from the tabs at the front of the fuel tank, located along the sides of the steering pivot, and at the base of the fuel tank, using an Allen wrench. Lift the fuel tank off the frame and have an assistant hold it in place. Loosen the clamps attaching the fuel hose under the center of the tank and the water drain hoses at the outer edges of the tank, using a flat-head screwdriver. Pull the hoses off the fuel tank. Unplug the fuel pump connector, then remove the tank entirely.

7) Remove the cover from the top of the air box, located directly above both engine cylinder heads, using a Phillips screwdriver. Push the intake ducts out from the air box. Unbolt the air box from the throttle body, using an Allen wrench. Pull the air box out from the right side of the motorcycle’s frame.

8) Unplug the fuel injector connectors and move them out of the way. Loosen the throttle cable adjuster lock nuts, located on a pair of cable holders at the front and rear of the right side of the throttle body, using an open-end wrench. Do not loosen the cable on the outer position of the rear cable holder, this is the fast-idle — choke — cable. Turn the cable adjusters clockwise until the adjusters are seated against the cable holders. Pull the cable ends out of the throttle body pulley. Turn the cable adjusters counterclockwise until the threaded end of the cable housings are free. Slide the throttle cables out of the slots cut into the cable holders.

9) Take note of how the throttle cables are routed through the motorcycle’s frame, then pull the cables out and away from the motorcycle. Lubricate the new cables, using a motorcycle cable-specific lubricant spray, then route the cables through the frame to the handlebar, following the same route used by the original cables.

10) Slip the first cable end into the rear catch on the throttle body pulley. Slide the cable through the rear cable holder slot, then screw the cable adjuster completely into the holder. This is the pull cable. Slip the second — the push — cable into the forward catch on the pulley. Screw the cable adjuster into the front cable holder.

11) Push the cable ends into the rear portion of the right handlebar switch pod. Slip the pull cable end into the rear catch on the throttle twist grip flange. Slip the push cable end into the twist grip’s front catch. Align the peg on the inner lip of the rear switch pod into the hole drilled into the handlebar. Push the front portion of the switch pod into place and snugly tighten the switch pod screws.

12) Turn the cable adjusters near the throttle body counterclockwise until they are halfway threaded into the cable holders. Lightly wiggle the throttle twist grip until you feel tension. Ideally, the grip should have 1/8-inch of movement before the grip pulls the throttle cable. Turn the switch pod cable adjusters counterclockwise until the twist grip has 1/8-inch of free play. Tighten the adjuster lock nuts at the throttle body and switch pod. Plug in the fuel injector connectors.

13) Slide the air box over the throttle body from the right side of the motorcycle. Mount the air box onto the throttle body and screw the mounting bolts into place. Tighten the bolts to 25 inch-pounds. Push the air ducts into the air box, then reinstall the cover over the top of the air box. Tighten the cover bolts to 10 inch-pounds.

14) Hold the fuel tank over the motorcycle with the aid of an assistant. Plug in the fuel pump connector, followed by both water drain hoses onto the outlets along both sides of the fuel tank. Push the fuel hose onto the fuel pump outlet under the center of the fuel tank. Tighten all three hose clamps, using a flat-head screwdriver. Lower the tank onto the motorcycle. Screw the pair of forward mounting bolts, as well as the rear mounting bolt, into place and tighten them to 35 foot-pounds.

15) Push the frame covers into the grommets on both sides of the motorcycle’s frame below the seat rails. Slide the mounting tongue under the front of the seat into the slot at the base of the fuel tank, then lower the seat onto the seat rails. Screw the seat mounting bolt into place and tighten it snugly.

16) Untie the front brake master cylinder from the front fork and mount it onto the right handlebar. Tighten the outer master cylinder clamp bolts to foot-pounds, using a torque wrench. Pump the front brake lever repeatedly, the lever should feel firm as it moves through its range of motion. If the lever feels soft, almost like squeezing a sponge, air may have entered the brake circuit and will need to be bled to restore braking performance.

17) Start the engine and let it idle. Sit on the motorcycle and lift it off of its side stand. Turn the handlebars completely from one side to the other and listen to the engine. If the engine idle increases when the handlebar is turned, the cables are too tight and must be loosened. Stop the engine and lower the motorcycle onto its side stand., if the engine idle remains steady regardless of handlebar position.

Extra Tips:

*Don’t overtighten the throttle cables. The throttle twist grip must have a small amount of free play before engaging the cables. A lack of free play can cause the cables to snap during operation, resulting in a loss of control that could lead to an accident.

* Follow the same route as the old throttle cables when installing the new cables. Following any other route from the throttle body to the handlebar can cause the cables to bind, possibly locking the throttle in an open position and causing a loss of control.

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